Covering the lip of a rope welt

Apply 3/4″ Millennium tape to the wrong side of the fabric and press it down to make a sharp creaseimg0001.jpgHot glue the folded fabric to the rope welt lip  

   After we have hot glued rope welt to the edge of the cornice we need to cover the exposed lip of the cord.  The easiest no-sew way to do this is to make a sharp crease in the fabric by pressing it together with our fingers using 3/4″ Millennium tape.

Matching those pesky stripes

The finished corniceThe back side of the fabric with masking tape applied to keep the foot from getting stuck under the bulky threads of the stripesThe finished seam from the front

   Every once in a while someone will give me a workroom tip that saves a lot of frustration and results in a much nicer finished product.  This suggestion came from Catherine who managed one of the Calico Corners stores and her suggestion involves matching horizontal stripes on a cornice board .  Even with a walking foot sewing machine it is sometimes difficult to match all the horizontal stripes without tearing the seam apart over and over again.  The matching is not so critical on soft treatments like valances and drapes because of the folds in the fabric.  But on a cornice board the fabric is stretched tight and shows every imperfect match.

   We begin by pressing down about an inch and a half of the edge of the fabric to a place where the matching would give the most pleasing appearance.   Today’s fabric is a little difficult because of the bulky threads that make up the stripes.  So after pressing we lay a piece of masking tape to within a quarter inch of where we will sew.  Next we match the two pieces of fabric and begin sewing as close to the edge as possible (perhaps less than 1/16th inch).  As we work our way down the seam we can make very small adjustments at each stripe to make sure they match.   Pull off the masking tape before applying the fabric over the batting on the cornice board.

Let’s make a mock roman shade cornice board

Make plywood box, attach batting, cover with muslin and mark lines 2 3/4″ apartSee if Millennium tape will stick to this fabric.  It doesn’t because of a teflon coating so we will use glue.Glue folds with fringe adhesive so they lay perfectly straightLay out center foldLay out the top and bottom foldsSee how the folds look on the corniceGlue on the strip of fabric that covers the bottom edge and then continue attaching the foldsWrap the folds around to the inside of the returnsUse cardboard tack strip to position liningStaple lining in placeFinished !!    To make a mock roman shade cornice board with matching pattern we first staple batting to the plywood box and cover the batting with muslin.  On this board which is 8 1/4″ high we want three folds so mark the muslin with lines 2 3/4″ apart.  Now let’s lay out the fabric loosely to see which part of the  pattern we want centered and begin by laying out the center fold.  Now we will lay out the top and bottom folds to match the pattern of the center fold and start cutting the fabric.   After the pieces are cut we try Millennium tape to see if it will stick and it won’t (probably a teflon coating on this fabric) so we use fringe adhesive to glue the folded fabric together.  This will keep the fold perfectly straight when it is applied to the cornice board. 

    We first apply the piece of fabric that will wrap around the bottom edge and then  the three folds making sure they are each 2 3/4″  and the pattern of each fold matches above and below.   The folds are wrapped around the inside of the returns and a lining fabric is attached using cardboard tack strip and staples.  Now stand it up on its bottom edge to make sure the folds hang evenly and we are finished.